Saturday, September 30, 2023

LEJOG Day 27 - Killin to Pitlochry

55 / 13 degrees, light winds, sunny cloudy for our trip to Pitlochry today.  Killin was a nice quiet place, plenty of hills (mountains?) for climbing, the river and a pub.  Would be nice to come back to in a caravan.

This is the fourth day in this second to last section of the trip.  A bit sore today from pedalling 4.5 miles hard up to the top of Glen Ogle yesterday.  Trying to go uphill faster is a silly thing to do, gets you what?  No faster and sore legs!  

Spent yesterday just admiring the views.  We were lucky that for the majority of the day the hills were visible and not hidden by clouds and mist.  The rainbows were an unexpected treat.

We’re eating less, we’ll see if that lasts as we move into the Highlands.  Yesterday was a not very large breakfast (Full English because that’s the only option w/ protein), a couple meat cheese roll ups w/ half a banana and an afternoon lunch of a shared Scottish tapas & venison burgers.  Went back to the hotel and passed out until 6:00 (carb coma?).  The point to this is back in Cornwall we would have had another full meal, instead we had tea.  Doubt the weight is coming off because, well, beer, but we do feel fitter.

Today we ride along Loch Tay, the River Tay, the River Tummel to Pitlochry.  Quite a lot of road today, but small ones.  Today gets us over 900 miles so 3 quarters of the way!

Cullen Skink, salmon (Scotland's largest food export - maybe that’s why I’m not finding it on menus, they export it all?), a wee dram - meal plan for tonight.  Stay off the haggis!

We climbed out of Killin

Loch Tay

Miles and miles of Loch Tay

Fields overlooking the Loch

The hills hidden in the clouds, but still a fantastic view

Looking back down Loch Tay

Castle Menzies 

Picnic stop, very autumnal

I haven’t been in this bridge for 40 years

End of the day

Fisherman

Day’s profile

Lovely sculptures

Now that’s a proper pub!

This evening’s selections

Corncrake

Happy Chappie

Nice end to the day!

We left Killin and pedalled onto the best route we’ve had so far - 15 miles of smooth road overlooking stonewalled fields, a loch and surrounded by mountains.  It was roller coaster hilly, but we’re used to that now!  Roadwise, think it was the best day so far.   Scenery wise, it was the best day too.  Pitlochry is one of the prettier towns we’ve been though.  It’s bustling touristy, but in a good way - plenty to see and do.  We had a great wander around the town and dinner out at the Fern Cottage - early booking on Saturday night was a good idea!



Funny thing today, we pedalled through the town of Dull, Scotland, turns out it’s paired with the town of Boring, Oregon.  Not one you usually see! 


Steve’s Letters From…
Greetings LFA’s and welcome to this week’s edition which comes, for the second week running from Scotland, to be more precise from Pitlochry. I realise it’s early but we have a long day ahead of us tomorrow with an early start in the morning morning as we tackle the last 60 mile day which includes a climb to  1500 ft over the Drumochter Pass. All being well next week’sedition will come from Wick which is where the cycling ends having been to JOG earlier the previous day.

Scotland has presented different challenges mainly weather related, it’s been varied, longish remote days between Gretna and Glasgow and shorter very scenic days for the last four days with Lochs, Glens and Castles, despite the weather some of the best cycling I have experienced.

Tomorrow we go into the Highlands proper, Aviemore is on the edge of the Cairngorm Mountains which has some of the highest peaks in Scotland (but not the highest). Once we go beyond Inverness, we are in new territory for me.  I have never been north of here in my life though I lived not far from Aviemore and Inverness for three years (1980 to 1983) when I was stationed in Lossiemouth.  Claire was born in Aberdeen. 
Looking forward to the final stage through the Highlands.

Have a good week, Steve & Katherine.







Friday, September 29, 2023

LEJOG Day 26 - Callander to Killin

Enjoyed the Jazz Fest last night, would have liked to stay for more, but time to move on.  A second short day this week, 21.4 miles today.  Going from the jazzy town of Callander to Killin, and the Falls of Dochart.  There’s one 1000 foot climb in there over Glen Ogle, but otherwise fairly flat or undulating.  Windy and wet today, 55 / 13 degrees, gusts up to 40mph.  More beautiful scenery expected, will be happy if we get some views!

We headed out of Callander and immediately encountered a flood.  I would have liked to get a photo of it, but there are some things you don’t do while pedalling through high water.  We didn’t dunk our entire feet, but Steve’s were dipping in and out as we pedalled slowly through.  Not long after that there was sunshine.  I took a picture so we would have proof!

We had great rail trails for the majority of the day, mostly through a forest, by either a river or a loch.  A few tracks, some gravely or stony, and one rainbow covered one!  

We bumped into a cyclist who told us that the cycle route over Glen Ogle was closed.  We do tend to take ‘road closed’ signs with a grain of salt, as usually the bike can get through.  This closure looked more significant than that.  Seriously flooded or eroded paths are tough to deal with on a tandem, tricky to just pick it up and clamber over an obstacle.  There was a new sign saying the route was closed, and as we saw this morning there’s been a lot of rain!  We decided to take the A road over Glen Ogle, it was much more trafficy, but chances are we could make our way over it.

A few showers, a deluge as we arrived in Killin, but that was pretty much it.  It’s a small town surrounded by mountains and a rushing river running through it.  The falls are quite famous and there were loads of people braving the sideways rain to see them.  Settled in to the B&B, and then headed out for a long, cozy lunch at The Dochart Falls Inn.

Just proof that there was sunshine today

Grey skies and sheep as we headed out

Cattle grid

Not doing a lot of pushing now, this just after a gate

Rushing and very full river

Checking out the bike while I take photos

Rainbow over the loch

Loch in the distance, break in the clouds

The hills are growing larger

Another loch that we will soon be riding next to

A wee bridge

Riding next to the loch, remote Scottish house on the other side.  So windy there were white caps on the water

Climbing Glen Ogle

We were supposed to be up there

Okay, looks like a reason for closing the path 

Gorgeous when the sun comes out

Might have worked out for the best, I wouldn’t have gotten this shot

Beautiful on both sides

Looking back down from the top of Glen Ogle

Not our favourite type of road, but at least it was open

Made it to the top

Today’s profile, short with a climb

Dochart Falls

Village by the Falls



Looks like an old hunting lodge

Inside - dry, warm and cozy

The unnamed pint - something local we were told

Scottish tapas

Look at how thick that wall is!

Dochart Falls from the other side

The Dochart Falls Inn

Amazing how much water is rushing through here

Today was stunningly beautiful and i understand it only gets more so as we get into the Highlands…

One more rainbow to cap off the day!



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