Saturday, June 7, 2025

Danube - Riedlingen Bridge to Ulm

Ack, woke up to the sound of pouring rain!  It really can rain in Germany, but we don’t want to pedal in it!  Luckily 2 coffees later, it had stopped!

Had a very restful night in our little apartment - one bedroom, living room, bath and kitchen - plenty of room for all our gear.  We have several of these apartments booked on this trip.  They are harder to find your way into (keys, codes, directions, etc.), but much nicer than the usual hotel room.  And finding your way into where to put the bike is even more interesting, this might be the most unusual overnight place for the tandem thus far!

Had coffee in the apartment and then found breakfast at a little bakery steps away from the flat.  Loaded up the bike.  Steve did the ‘tweaks’ and then we were off for our day of dodging the rain.



Good day with the bike engineering to start and not a lot of really big hills although we did notice the ones we had - some after the rain squishy gravel and then those wonderful wine-dy paved paths through the fields which go on for miles and miles.  Our time spent on roads with actual traffic is minimal, today might have been all of two miles (except for our little detour).











Did the German salad again for lunch - bigger than I can eat and surrounded by a bustling market.  Think that’s going to become a staple - the market and the salad!



The gravel paths have been fine, but they are a bit more difficult on the backside.  Lots of ‘bump, bump, bump’.  Bit sore (and bruised) by the end of the day!  All went swimmingly well until we got to less than 2 miles from Ulm and found the path was closed!  Not sort of closed, sneak your way around it, and then head on, but unpassably shut.  As we were going to see if we could get through another cyclist came by and said it was really, really closed.  The only other option looked like another 6 miles backtrack to get to Ulm on a different path - nooooooo!  Steve managed to find a route on a sidewalk right into town -  very busy, very trafficy, but got us there.



Staying at the Hotel Centro Stern in Ulm tonight and found a very tradional German restaurant for dinner.  I had three different German ‘tapas’ of sausage, beef cheeks and the most amazing cabbage fritters, and Steve had schnitzel w/ bacon potatoes.  Both the beer and wine were very good!





Some notes / thoughts from the day:

Thought we might be some of the older ones on this trip, but we’re not by a long, long, long shot!

Our German is absolutely horrific!  The technology really is what makes this type of trip possible.  Booking.com translates the messaging back and forth.  Google Translate does the words and viewing the translated menus prevents all sorts of food ordering errors (I once ordered pigs feet in Spain!). And Komoot does the route for us.  Makes traveling in another country so much easier!

Not tons of climbs today, but enough to make you pay attention.  This will be known as the ‘could have climbed this hill on the Orbit’ trip!

We adore German shutters - push a button / pull a cord and, the metal shades drop - poof, blackout shades!

Comments:

  1. Not much to add really, not a difficult day but after three days in the saddle I can tell you that you can’t beat a Brooks Saddle!! We did debate taking them off the Orbit but didn’t think it would make that much difference, probably a mistake, sorest “bottom” ever and we are not even 25% done.
    Bavaria tomorrow and 58 miles but not a lot of climbing 🤔. It’s also a bank holiday weekend in Germany this weekend so we raided the local supermarket this evening, not sure what will be available tomorrow. Think we’ll be ready for a “rest day” on Monday. River is getting bigger, still no big boats on it yet, sure that will change tomorrow as two more rivers join the Danube here in Ulm. 

  2. Quite stunning scenery to be riding through. Certainly makes for enjoyable days and maybe helps to focus less on the sore bottom. Finding food and such is almost as much of a job as all that pedaling. 😁

Friday, June 6, 2025

Danube - Tuttlingen to Riedlingen Bridge

Off for another 50+ today.  Thought we might be wrecked this morning, but feeling okay.  Up and out early as no coffee in the rooms (pretty standard in Europe) and breakfast was €18 per person.  Thought we could do better than that and found a place with  groß caffès and a very large omelette that we split.  Everyone wants cash only though!



A good portion of the day was spent winding our way down a narrow, cliff lined valley.  It was just us on a fantastic path following the river as it meandered back and forth.  We had headwinds and tailwinds depending on which way the river wandered, these were funnelled by the narrowness of the valley and could be quite forceful in places.




We left Tuttlingen after exploring a really nice market and encountering a local cyclist who was quite curious about the tandem, where we were from, where we were going and suggested sites to see on the route.  Did the first 8 miles today in 40 minutes rather than 2 hours!




We were really pleased with the quality of the paths - very well sign-posted (put LEJOG to shame), good gravel (so happy with the new, bigger tires) and miles and miles and miles of paved paths just for us!  We saw an average of one couple every 15 minutes today.  The direction of the route, Black Forest to Budapest, is working out.  Still some climbs, but the overall descent is noticeable.




These two days have been long, but there’s no point in shorter days.  The hotel rooms aren’t ready until after 4:00 so no point in arriving early. Arrived at Riedlingen Bridge after traversing the gorge valley and then the bread basket plains, where all the wheat grows, both tall and short wheat. Saw the odd castle.  Found our apartment, struggled to find the place to store the tandem.  ‘It’s 150 metres - yes, but in which direction?’  ‘Oh, it’s on another street?’  That would have been useful to know!








Got there in the end and had a Romanian style meat platter for dinner.  Ready for bed! By the way, the tandem box has finally been picked up from Hotel Garni in Triberg, for its trip to Budapest.  Two days late.  Whew, that would have been a problem if that hadn’t happened!

Comments:

  1. Another full day. The variation in the scenery over relatively short distances is notable. In the space of a few miles you go from a gorge which is as high as it is wide to a great big wide valley. Thankfully there has been no need for rain jackets thus far, I am sure that will change sooner or later. Fewer miles tomorrow, maybe a “lie in” tomorrow. We are in an Airbnb flat tonight which gives a bit more room to spread out. A place called Ulm tomorrow which we have been to a few times on moto tours, quite a big place. 

  2. Wow, what a nice path! That's makes all the difference in an enjoyable ride. Beautiful scenery but with bumps and potholes makes you miss the gorgeous parts. As much as the scenery tho, that dinner caught my eye. Looks amazing. 

  3. Looks like an epic trip so far, some of the architecture looks stunning! Sat here trying to figure out if I can fit that fountain in my flat...

Thursday, June 5, 2025

Danube - Triberg to Tuttilingen

Triberg to Martinskappelle to Donaueschingen to Tuttlingen.  First ‘real’ day of the trip!


54 miles with the first 7 up and (theoretically) 47 down.  It was pedal and push, pedal and push for that first 7 - it took us two hours to do that 7 miles!  The most challenging part was a stony path, that we (again) pushed the bike uphill.  Steve says he’s sore tonight, not from pedalling, but from pushing the bike uphill.




It was lovely though, once we got up into the hills.  Alpine meadows and Bavarian architecture - and some of the tidiest farms ever!  Once we made it over the top, we went through Martinskappelle which is the source of the Donau (Danube) and then dropped quickly into a valley that we followed for the rest of the day.  We watched the Danube grow from a stream that you could step over, to something you could wade through to something you could swim across.  We’re almost at the point where it’s navigable.

The bigger tires worked really well on the gravel tracks and through the mud.  There is a need for a mud guard, as we were both pretty dirty by the end of the day and were both in total agreement about the need for a lower gear and a drag break.  It was a bit ‘interesting’ to get to a fantastic downhill and not be able to scream along because we had to be so careful about the brakes.  Did manage to find a very nice wee coffee after that though!



We had lunch in Donauschingen which was 20-odd miles after Martinskappelle and then did the next 23 to Tuttlingen, dodging a nasty looking rainstorm almost all of the way.  The valley trails went on for miles and miles and were great for riding - nice treat after the stones, gravel and mud!






Tuttlingen didn’t involve any major climbs to get here.  When we arrived, the hotel seemed to be in an iffy part of town.  Steve said, ‘We’re not staying if we can’t lock the bike up’.  I refused to check in until we had access to a lock up. Finally managed it.

Dinner was at a very traditional restaurant which we found after walking back and forth several times around and around the pedestrian street and all its side streets.




Managed to find a Romanian style meat platter - such a treat after a long pedal!



Things that worked really well today:

Carrying the bike down the staircase from the hotel.  It worked!

Komoot gpx files - we would have been so lost trying to follow the book, but the stony track was a disappointment.

Google Translate - first time we’ve used this ‘in anger’ and it is really stepping up to the mark. We’ve used it to help with things we have wanted to say and for things like menus, both have been brilliant!

Comments:

  1. Tough start to the day, bike does crushed gravel pretty well but not stone forest tracks, hopefully there are no more of them!! Rest of the day was fine. Bike is working well, will check tension of fasteners and make a couple of tweaks in the morning. Great navigating and pedalling from the back, didn’t get “temp uncertain of our present position” once despite a few diversions around roadworks. Trails are pretty well marked. Another 50 odd miles tomorrow, bring it on !!

  2. Did you see a lot of other cyclists? 

    Replies
    1. We periodically ran into other cyclists, a few an hour. Mountain bikes on the tracks and some e-b bikes on the trails. Ran into a tandem pulling a trailer. Many people older than us obviously out on multi day trips all loaded up with their panniers


       BrianJune 6, 2025 at 3:11 PM  Looks like an awesome start to the adventure. I think I could convince myself to get on the bike every day if I have a dinner like that to look forward to! It's all about the food. ;-)

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