Tuesday, June 10, 2025

Danube - Donauworth to Ingolstadt

37 miles today and drinking beer by 1:00!  Can’t get into the hotel until 3:00ish so no early nap for us!



Left Donauworth after perusing the guidebook for route details and yet again being grateful we have the gpx files.  Moving at a leisurely pace as ‘only’ 39 miles to go today.  Listening to cuckoos as we rode.  Three small, but steep, hills and then flat all the rest of the way to Ingolstadt.  Think we’re spoiled by the flats on the majority of this trip.




Managed to find coffee and second breakfast in Neuberg, sitting in the sun in pretty town square.  There aren’t as many towns with restaurants / coffee shops as you’d expect on this route so we stop when we find one.



We didn’t spend a lot of time by the river today. We mostly ran along gravel paths, some along the top of an embankment which ran alongside the river (to keep from flooding the valleys?). Pretty good paths as we still averaged 13.5 on the gravel.  Think it was one of those ‘get from one pretty bit of the route to another pretty bit’ through some commercial / towny bits. Nothing to complain about, just not as scenic as some days.





Passed a lot of shrines, valleys, deer blinds and Biergartens.  Steve is really enjoying the German beers and is sad when we have to pass a biergarten, of which there were many today. But, we have rules regarding alcohol consumption while pedalling - must be w/in a mile of the hotel and no hills.  So, 20 miles away just doesn’t do it!




Arrived in Ingolstadt at 1:00, in time for a very leisurely lunch as we waited for the code to be able to get into the unattended hotel.  Found a proper lunch of sausages and sauerkraut for me and weird white sausages and a pretzel for Steve, followed by some very big coffees to keep us awake for the next 45 minutes.  Good time to blog, I think!  We’ll wait to ramble around what looks like a very interesting town until the bike and luggage are away and we’re not in our clackety-clack cycling shoes on the cobblestones.




Really nice town, plenty of pedestrian areas and plenty of out door dining.  Walked down to the river to see where we’d be going tomorrow.

Steve didn’t like the place that the hotel wanted us to put the bike so it’s staying in with us tonight.  Since the hotel is unattended, there was nobody to ask if it was okay!  And it does make a good laundry rack!


Went out for aperitivos and then dinner - Vietnamese.  Lots of different options here - German (obviously), Greek, Spanish, Turkish, Chinese, Vietnamese, etc. - tough to decide!  Then, again, very early bed!



Comments:

  1. So only half a day really, feels like we “bunked off school” and went the pub!!! We were going pretty well today and that’s probably to do with us having done 200 plus miles in the last few days. It’s getting more “touristy”, where we had lunch the wait staff were in the traditional Bavarian Dress, the drinks waiter tonight had the curly moustache, some very Bavarian suits. We are getting close to Austria, land of The Sound of Music …. Expect to encounter the Von Trappe family any day now.
    Tomorrow back to nearly 60 miles but c 3 should be on a ferry through another gorge to a place where the Rhine, Main and Danube Canal joins the river, this allows pretty big boats to go from the Baltic/North Sea to the Black Sea, highest point is 406m (c 1400 ft above sea level), should start to see more boats on the river which has become quite wide now. Every few miles there are dams and sluice gates and locks to make it navigable ie deep enough and can get past the dams…
    Auf Weidershenen.

  2. You guys need to come to Vermont. We can visit the Von Trappe brewery as well as ride a rail trail (flat!) with many breweries alongside. We stopped at 3 for beers along the way and then went back with the car to purchase. Vermont = beer.


Monday, June 9, 2025

Danube - Day Off in Donauworth

Woohoo - day off!  Love the pedalling, and love the days off!   Listening to the cathedral bells ring whil planning the day.  It’s a German bank holiday so not much beyond the restaurants will be open so a walk, food and naps are on the agenda.





Found a great flat for our rest day!  The flat is perfect for a couple nights stay and meets all the selection criteria - just off the route, not up a big hill, very close to restaurants (an easy walk), etc. Really nice to have the extra space and a lockup for the bike.  Managed to manhandle the coffee machine and the washing machine this morning so fully caffeinated with clean clothes!  We wash our gear at the end of each day and dry it overnight, but it’s nice to give everything a proper wash before the next stage.

Donauworth is a pretty town which was not destroyed in WWII.  Loads of old buildings and cobblestone streets.  Serious walls to protect against flooding.  Found a great spot for lunch. We seem to be landing in all the Italian places. Well, at least we can speak more of the language!  Had an Insalata di Mare’ and pizza - day off food! Tried yet another taste of beer. Nope, not that one either! The Italians do make a proper coffee! Having stretched our legs, went back to the flat for the second nap of the day. We're well into Bavaria now and have done over 200 miles.









And then out for (a mega ice cream) dinner!

Random thoughts:

No matter how much you train beforehand, still have to manage the pain:  Sore legs and backsides this morning.  Used the whole ‘long distance cycling medical kit’ yesterday.  This detail is only for those in the group who are thinking about doing big days in succession. The biggest thing to avoid is any chafe as there is no opportunity for it to heal - chamois cream in the morning and midday, Sudocreme after showers.Testing Jess’s ‘magic lotion’ this trip - Voltarol. During the day every two hours - ibuprophen, paracetamol (Tylenol), repeat. Don’t wear the same make / brand of shorts every day as the seams will all chafe in the same places.

It’s a bit much, hotels doing self service:  I don’t mind doing the whole find a key, unassisted check in with Airbnbs and flats.  I do mind arriving at a big hotel in the middle of a city where I’d pre-arranged bike storage and being greeted by an empty lobby and a computer screen - one which tells me they can’t process my reservation and to go find a staff member (who was hidden behind an unmarked door). First time we’ve seen this when we’ve travelled over here.  Lots of reminders to pre-check in with links that don’t work or providing a PIN code in black print in a black background.  Cost cutting gone mad.  Grumble, grumble, chunter, chunter…

That wasn't the case in Donauworth though - gorgeous place!  Loving the whole thing!  Early night tonight - going to try and stay up until 7:30!

Comments:

Whilst the laundry was going on, it was clean, lube and adjust the bike for me. All seems well, ideally would have been able to get all the sand & grit off the transmission (chains, gears and derailleurs) but there is only so much stuff you can carry. 


Who knew ice cream for dinner could be so filling🤔, there was a lot of it though. Bavarian beer is just as good as I remember it, Katherine‘s response was an ecstatic endorsement compared to how she usually reacts to beer!!
Pretty gentle day tomorrow (just under 40 miles), weather looks “set fair” for the rest of the week, quite warm later in the week. Onwards and upwards as they say….


Sunday, June 8, 2025

Danube - Ulm to Donauworth (and a rest day!)

Ulm is a fairly large city, 190,000 people, and I think many of them were driving around last night beeping their horns!  Feel surprisingly good on 5 hours sleep.


Today we head to Donauworth and have a rest day tomorrow.  The flat we’re staying in has a washing machine!  The route looks fairly flat and it’s supposed to start warming up soon. We’ve had large cups of coffee and a proper German breakfast (including pickles).  We did not have the cake.

Made our way out of Ulm, zig-zagging here and there.  Then did miles and miles of forest trails on gravel.  Nothing wrong with the gravel as it was a lovely route by the Danube, but it was a bit bouncy.  Gravel was fine, but had to pay attention!




What do you do when you encounter a tree completely blocking the trail?!

Took advantage of the rest breaks, because we were dodging a storm and it was a long day! We didn’t get soaked, but we did have to stop for me to put on more clothes.  The rain jackets were in and out of the panniers all day.  It was lovely and quiet for most of the day, everyone must have been having a lie-in!

It’s a holiday in Germany and everything is shut. We managed to find Doner Kababs for lunch and Italian for dinner.  It was all good - have to go with what you can find!







It was a good ramble around Donauworth tonight, lovely place!  Can’t wait to see more tomorrow! Tired tonight and glad to have the rest day tomorrow!

Comments:

  1. Another great day, just over 58 miles… Germany is largely closed today and tomorrow (spring bank holiday here), even Lidl is shut!! Ever resourceful we managed, looks like left over Dona Kebab and Spaghetti Carbonara tomorrow for breakfast 😎. This place is touristy enough to have plentiful supply of food (seems mostly ice cream) I think Germans like ice cream as much as Italians!! Lazy Day tomorrow, bike needs a clean and a lube and we need to do some laundry before we head out on Tuesday for another 4 days and 200 miles. There may be some napping 😴 

  2. Fun! -Rafael


    KatherineJune 9, 2025 at 5:44 AM  Rafael, think you’d love it!

  3. Some great pics...I love the cute towns and squares. Also nice to be able to eat outside. Impressive you are doing so many 50-milers in a row! Enjoy the off-day tomorrow.

    1. The villages / towns with a selection of places to stay / restaurants seem to be either 25-30ish or around 50 miles apart so the first is too short and the second makes for bigger days. For the first 3 hours yesterday we saw nothing but river and path!


      Madge H. SmithJune 10, 2025 at 3:42 PM  Gorgeous flowers hanging over the streets. Love seeing the many styles of buildings in the town squares.

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