Monday, June 23, 2025

Danube - Esztergom to Budapest!

Wheels rolling at 6am, having had breakfast (bacon sandwiches) and coffee / Diet Coke.  Left Esztergom and had a lovely pedal by the river and then ‘on the road’ happened.  The first bit of the road was smooth, good progress, no traffic. Went along a massive mile+ field, hawk watching as we went.




Then we were back on the road and there was more and more traffic.  No cycle lane, no cycle path.  I’m watching the map for when we have to make a turn and asking Steve, ‘Can you see Liz?’  We periodically stopped and reconnected. Then the route began to follow the river more and more.  
We’ve been following the EuroVelo 6 signs for close to 800 miles now!  Found a fantastic bakery with a coffee shop.  Went by and it looked like a bread manufacturing facility. Didn’t see much in the way of signs, but loads of people were going in and out.  Went in and there was this coffee / breads / cakes shop - sticky buns were had by all.










Szentendre was the turning point, much more time by the river.  Mostly rode into Budapest and except for a random closure of a path near the railway, it was a good trip in - as trips into cities go.  We made our way alongside the road on a tiny sidewalk until we reconnected with the proper path and made our way down the Buda side of the river.


Crossed over Szechenyi Lanchid Bridge to the Pest side of Budapest - gorgeous, could see the historic buildings on both sides of the river.  Saw the Parliament Building which looks like a palace.

Found another interesting place to store a tandem - might be the nicest one we've found so far!



Went out for lunch before Steve had to pick up the bike box and Liz had to return the rental bike, a Trek bike which did really well on the entire trip!


We are staying at the Matild Palace tonight, fantastic finish to the tour - thank you, Liz! Great room overlooking the bridge and the Danube.  Went to the rooftop bar for cocktails and a view of the city.









Big (but gently tired) celebration tonight.  I’ll do the rest of the totals tomorrow, but Liz pedalled 397 miles of the absolutely gorgeous and the absolutely challenging (some of the hardest we’ve done).  Not a complaint throughout. Invited back for another - if she wants to do it again!

Comments:
  1. The “pedals turning by 6 am” strategy paid off, I think it was pedals “whirling” as we set off at a fair clip to beat the heat (and the Monday rush hour traffic). I guess it was a three breakfast day 🤔, bacon butties at the flat, sticky buns at the bakery and then a breakfast about 10.30 and 12 miles from the finish. Lunch (ride was over by then) consisted of a beer/wine and pizza fest!! Whilst we have burnt some calories today it wasn’t that many 😂😂.
    This is the “poshest” hotel I have ever stayed in (and I have stayed in some good ones over the years on business travel), it’s a “smart room” I think. The toilet lid goes up when you go near it, a button lifts the seat, it has a light in it … not many of them in Blackburn!! Imagine our arrival, hot, sweaty and with 4 weeks of road muck on the bike, surprised they let us in!!!
    Tomorrow is dismantle and pack the tandem for the trip back first thing then we are off to explore this great city. Katherine and I were here about 10 years ago but didn’t really scratch the surface, we have nearly two days here this time before we fly home on “squeezy jet” on Wednesday evening. 
    More reflections tomorrow but great trip, where will we go on next year’s “epic tandem tour”…. ? Pretty sure there will be one, watch this space …..

  2. Definitely yesterday and the day before were the toughest between bumpy paths and busy bumpy roads. But reaching Budapest has been awesome, and Hungarian food has been a total surprise. Katherine and Steve have this down to a science. Jess, you were spot on about their hot sauce - hot and flavorful! I am plotting how to bring some home in carry-on, and then where to find it in the US!

  3. Looked like a great trip from start to finish! Looking forward to the stats tomorrow.



Sunday, June 22, 2025

Danube - Komarom to Esztergom

Wow, one of the more ‘challenging’ days we’ve had!  You always think, ‘Oh, it’s only 32 miles, no problem’.  Hmm, that is seldom the case now that we think about it.


Had coffee by the Danube which was lovely! Interesting bike rack at our stop - tire-sized slots cut into a huge log!





Still on the EuroVelo 6, but today was a combination of bumpy bike paths and bumpy busy roads.  Not sure that the person who selected this route has ever ridden it!  Saw lots of derelict buildings which looked to be left from the Communist era along with the bumpy, bumpy paths and roads. 8 miles along one busy section - surprised Liz didn’t jump on a train after that!





Made it to Esztergom before 1:00 and found a lovely, shady restaurant for beers, wine and (Liz's new favorite) limoncello spritzers, along with a hearty lunch. Very relaxing!

Another very nice apartment tonight.  They have been a real treat.  Typically, two bedrooms, small kitchen / dining area and sometimes a small lounge.  Plenty of room to spread out.




Nice evening out in the Old Town.  Snacks and ice cream for dinner.  We did not have the New England IPA.  Love these historic village centres!
Tomorrow is the last pedalling day of the tour!

Comments:
  1. So the route today on Komoot said “expert”, we couldn’t understand why, 32 miles and pretty much no climbing, easy ….. Then we rode it …… I think the definition of “expert” actually translates as “fearless” or maybe “crazy people only”. One section was the worst 8 miles ever on the tandem and we have ridden thousands of miles in Italy, France, Germany, USA, UK. Anyway we lived to tell the tale, tandem is still in one piece with no broken spokes, everyone is still smiling. I would not recommend the section of Eurovelo 6 from Vienna to Budapest unless you do it on a mountain bike… . Tomorrow’s top temp in Budapest is 96F, we plan to be pedals turning at 6 am and done before noon, 40 odd miles. All that said, the towns and people have been absolutely lovely. Check in tomorrow for the report on the final day of pedalling….

  2. Always time for ice cream! 

  3. .. but the food has been fantastic. The bright spot of Vienna to Budapest!

  4. Do they make a fully-suspended tandem? Shocks might be a great addition to your next tandem build from the sound of it. That beer list looked amazing!

    1. They do a “mountain bike”version of tandems though they are less common. Getting one with couplers (so you can break it down and put it on an airplane) and the suspension might be tricky, weight limit for an oversize, over weight bag on most airlines is 70 lbs, the one we have just about complies if you put the pedals and chains in a different bag. I think the experience of the last week or so (Hungary roads and bike paths vs “developed world” experience) needs to be reflected on in the consideration of where to go next, upgrade the Santana (the one with the couplers) or “start again”. Thinking about that should keep me out of trouble for a bit 😁😁

Paris Trip - Gourney-en-Bray to Dieppe

Final day of the Paris Trip!  50 miles, 3 hills over the first 20 miles and 1-2% descent for the next 30 into Dieppe. Checking out the Le Ha...