Danube - Komarom to Esztergom

Wow, one of the more ‘challenging’ days we’ve had!  You always think, ‘Oh, it’s only 32 miles, no problem’.  Hmm, that is seldom the case now that we think about it.

Had coffee by the Danube which was lovely! Interesting bike rack at our stop - tire-sized slots cut into a huge log!

Still on the EuroVelo 6, but today was a combination of bumpy bike paths and bumpy busy roads.  Not sure that the person who selected this route has ever ridden it!  Saw lots of derelict buildings which looked to be left from the Communist era along with the bumpy, bumpy paths and roads. 8 miles along one busy section - surprised Liz didn’t jump on a train after that!

Made it to Esztergom before 1:00 and found a lovely, shady restaurant for beers, wine and (Liz's new favorite) limoncello spritzers, along with a hearty lunch. Very relaxing!

Another very nice apartment tonight.  They have been a real treat.  Typically, two bedrooms, small kitchen / dining area and sometimes a small lounge.  Plenty of room to spread out.

Nice evening out in the Old Town.  Snacks and ice cream for dinner.  We did not have the New England IPA.  Love these historic village centres!

Tomorrow is the last pedalling day of the tour!

Comments:

1. Stephen HodgsonJune 22, 2025 at 6:29 PM

   So the route today on Komoot said “expert”, we couldn’t understand why, 32 miles and pretty much no climbing, easy ….. Then we rode it …… I think the definition of “expert” actually translates as “fearless” or maybe “crazy people only”. One section was the worst 8 miles ever on the tandem and we have ridden thousands of miles in Italy, France, Germany, USA, UK. Anyway we lived to tell the tale, tandem is still in one piece with no broken spokes, everyone is still smiling. I would not recommend the section of Eurovelo 6 from Vienna to Budapest unless you do it on a mountain bike… . Tomorrow’s top temp in Budapest is 96F, we plan to be pedals turning at 6 am and done before noon, 40 odd miles. All that said, the towns and people have been absolutely lovely. Check in tomorrow for the report on the final day of pedalling….
2. 
   Kelley BeerbowerJune 22, 2025 at 6:42 PM

   Always time for ice cream! 
3. 
   LizJune 23, 2025 at 3:40 AM

   .. but the food has been fantastic. The bright spot of Vienna to Budapest!
4. 
   BrianJune 23, 2025 at 1:07 PM

   Do they make a fully-suspended tandem? Shocks might be a great addition to your next tandem build from the sound of it. That beer list looked amazing!

   1. 
      Stephen HodgsonJune 23, 2025 at 7:34 PM

      They do a “mountain bike”version of tandems though they are less common. Getting one with couplers (so you can break it down and put it on an airplane) and the suspension might be tricky, weight limit for an oversize, over weight bag on most airlines is 70 lbs, the one we have just about complies if you put the pedals and chains in a different bag. I think the experience of the last week or so (Hungary roads and bike paths vs “developed world” experience) needs to be reflected on in the consideration of where to go next, upgrade the Santana (the one with the couplers) or “start again”. Thinking about that should keep me out of trouble for a bit 😁😁

Danube - Mosonmagyarovar to Komarom

Great spot to overnight last night!  Breakfast was a whopping €7 each - welcome to Hungary! Beer is $2 for a 20oz - Steve is happy! Discovered how to get Hungarian hot sauce, which Jess introduced us to - just ask for it! Mosonmagyarovar - there are 350 dentists in this very little town - medical tourism spot!

Fields, fields and more fields.  Saw wheat, sunflowers, strawberries and loads of corn!  One individual field we saw must have been a mile long and its watering thing / sprinkler was a quarter of a mile long!

We are recalibrating our definition of bumps since arriving in Hungary.  Bumps are tricky because I cannot see nor prepare for bumps at all so there is a constant stream of communication from the front - ‘stand up’, ‘freewheel’ and most often ‘bump’.  ‘Bump’ giving me warning every time we come across a bump obviously.  Here, Steve was saying ‘bump’ every minute or so.  While we love the shady trees on this route, we don’t like the roots of the shady trees which are making the asphalt all bumpy.  There is a new definition of bumps for us and bump warnings - it’s now a bump so big it can bring us (me) off the seat!

Stopped for coffee at 9am.  Everyone else was having their morning beer… 

Went to Gyor for lunch, which was gorgeous and we would go back again.  Great selection of dishes for lunch.  Germany and Austria were great for schnitzel.  We love schnitzel, but not for both lunch and dinner daily (well, mostly, but not quite - schnitzel is REALLY good!).  My new favourite is garlic soup - don’t turn your nose up until you’ve tried it, in Slovakia or Hungary - amazing!

It was all cross-country today, didn’t see the river at all.  When we checked out the map there were two paths going right along both sides of the river - why did we not go that way?!  When we looked at the map in detail we realised, it was gravel - miles and miles and miles of gravel. No thank you!  We had some tree root bumpy paths, but we also had a wonderful long cycle ‘road’ from not far out of Gyor to Komarom, where we’re staying tonight.  Managed to find our hotel / rather large apartment, with its washing machine, first try!

Looked around for restaurants, asking Google. The best rated one was a 4.8 and in our hotel - guess we’ll stay here for dinner.  Catfish Goulash - delicious!  Kraut salad.  Pork medallions wrapped in bacon.  Pickle salad.  Zwack and chocolate soufflé.  It was all really good.  Perfect ending to our second long day in a row!

Btw - Over 600 miles now, have only seen 3 tandems.  We also have some very odd tan marks…

Comments:

1. Stephen HodgsonJune 21, 2025 at 6:41 PM

   It’s starting to feel a bit Mediterranean as we go further south in terms of the climate and culture. Tonight we are in a kind of upmarket “Billy Butlins” (Holiday Resort) with self catering apartments arranged around swimming pools with restaurants and bars. Folks still swimming and lying in the sun until it set. Last night there was definitely some “promenading” going on (whole families dressed up and out for a walk as the heat of the day subsided) dinner didn’t really get going till the sun had set. We need to explore more of Eastern Europe, I think it has huge potential. Interesting to see the difference in the generations, older guys sitting about, nattering, drinking beer and smoking at 8 am on Saturday mornings (I am guessing the legacy of the Cold War years), the younger ones, most speak English, very personable, I am sure they will be a “force to be reckoned with” into the future… I think we will be back at some point, hopefully it won’t be so bumpy!!!
2. 
   BrianJune 22, 2025 at 1:16 PM

   Beers only $2??? Yeah, I'd be drinking beer for breakfast too! Enjoy, Steve!

Danube - Vienna to Mosonmagyarovar

Nothing like a 3 country day!  Left Austria after breakfast, went to Slovakia for lunch and Hungary for dinner!  

Had a breakfast meeting in the Hodgson / Lachance suite before heading out for 7am this morning.  62+ miles to go to Mosonmagyarovar. Left Vienna by crossing a bridge to the island between both halves of the city.  Rode for several miles on an island park created by dredging the Danube, by the equipment used to dig the Suez Canal (the things you learn on bus tours!).  The trip out of Vienna was 6 miles in total, but seemed to be less fraught. Maybe because it gets quieter and quieter as you go, rather than more and more intense?

Saw some crazy maps along this route.  Stood there thinking, 'And we go where?!"

When we stopped for a water break, met a man who was pedaling from Turkey to Amsterdam - wow, what a trip!  He said things got much rougher after Budapest where we won't be going.  No camping for him, unlike the Brit we met earlier who was pedaling from the Atlantic to the Black Sea, camping all the way.  Nice to have a chat about our respective journeys.

Did 40 miles by lunch!   Came over the border to Slovakia, turned towards the river (hitting our biggest headwind of the trip) and crossed the bridge into Bratislava.  Came off the bridge and, poof, we were in the Old Town.  Garlic soup in a bread bowl was worth the trip!

Back over the river and very shortly crossed the border into Hungary - no sign, no border guards / no checkpoint.  If the border hadn’t been on the map, we wouldn’t have known where we crossed.

Made it to Mosonmagyarovar, our first Hungarian stop, and after struggling with Google maps a bit found the hotel (thanks, Liz). Nice place, very quiet, plenty of restaurants. Had a wander and then dinner at the hotel. Had beef cheeks for dinner - that qualifies as Steak Night!

Today Liz completed her first Metric Century at 66 miles, 106 kilometers at speeds of up to 16.7 miles per hour!  Great cycling day - 75ish, flat and a tailwind at times.

Comments:

1. LizJune 21, 2025 at 4:58 AM

   I only got to that 16+ mph because of the tailwind! Lovely countryside, lots of corn and wheat fields (HUGE fields)
2. 
   Stephen HodgsonJune 21, 2025 at 7:10 AM

   So the random oriental gentleman in the picture is a guy we bumped into on the trail who is riding from Turkey to Amsterdam, big respect!! As you can see he was pretty whippet like (more fat on a chip as we say in the North) and very enthusiastic.
   Enjoying experiencing Hungary which was behind the iron curtain till the end of the 80s, you can tell the difference still between east and west Europe but the differences seem to be getting smaller than last time we were here 10 years ago. Food and drink is excellent, the people are friendly, the younger ones all seem to speak some English, probably a deliberate strategy🤔.
   Weather continues to be great, early starts keep the number of miles pedalled with the temps in the high 80s or 90s to a manageable level. We are 16 days in (20 odd if you include travel and rest days) and it becomes almost a way of life, get up, pack up, get breakfast, pedal, lunch, pedal some more, check in, get showered & changed, quick explore and drink, dinner, bed and sleep. Repeat!! What’s not to like?
3. 
   BrianJune 21, 2025 at 1:46 PM

   Wow...hard to believe you can just bike over the border(s) with no showing passports and such. When I biked from Canada into Vermont I had to stop at the border guard, show a passport and tell them where I lived and where I was going. And that was 20+ years ago! Nice to not have the hassle for you guys. Nice routine to get into! 😎